Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees

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The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, the most significant union representing workers in the men's clothing industry, was founded in New York City in 1914 as a breakaway movement from the United Garment Workers. Radical and immigrant workers in the tailors’ and cutters’ locals were the core of the seceding group, which advocated industrial unionism and economic strikes in opposition to the UGW’s craft organization, which they saw as conservative and timid. Their diverging views had come to the fore during the historic 1910 dispute at the Chicago firm Hart, Schaffner, and Marx. The opposition called the strike against the UGW leadership’s advice, and reached a path-breaking agreement with management that established an arbitration system to settle disputes.

Members flocked to the new union. Around 50,000 strong at its founding, by 1920 the ACWA counted about 170,000 members. Initially composed mostly of immigrants of Jewish European descent with Socialist leanings, the ACWA quickly welcomed members of a great number of nationalities and diverse backgrounds. Like in other garment unions, most workers and many members were women, but the leadership was predominantly male, a situation that did not change for many decades. Early on the union adopted a centralized administrative structure combined with industrial unionism, with the joint boards’ by-laws having precedence over those of locals.

Espousing a philosophy perhaps brought over by its early immigrant socialist members, the Amalgamated went beyond bread and butter issues and adopted a distinctive form of social unionism that was largely absent in the American labor movement. Starting in the 1920s, it provided educational opportunities and recreational facilities for its members, as well as services such as an insurance plan, banks offering personal loans at low interest rates, low-cost housing cooperatives, medical clinics, and even union-owned restaurants.

Sidney Hillman was the first president of the new union and the most important officer in its history. He applied his experience as bargaining representative in Chicago to the whole industry. Under his leadership the union made significant strides in securing better wages and working conditions for its members, and at the same time it consolidated gains and provided stability to the industry through the widespread adoption of the arbitration system tested at Hart, Schaffner, and Marx. Hillman paid close attention to industry issues, such as production, pricing, and marketing. In order to help management meet the competition of non-union firms, the union conducted studies of efficiency, work methods, and factory costs. Letters to the official publication of the union, Advance, document the controversy that ensued within the union over what was perceived to be collaboration with management.

Hillman also understood the importance of labor’s involvement in national affairs and political action. In the 1920s the ACWA sent delegates to the Conference for Progressive Political Action and to the Farmer-labor party conventions. Although many members and officers were Socialists, the union stopped short of officially endorsing the party. Communist attempts at gaining influence within the union were firmly curbed. Hillman’s participation in national affairs and politics became prominent during the New Deal, when he became a close advisor to Franklin D. Roosevelt on labor and economic issues. He also served on the board of the National Recovery Administration. Later, during World War II, he helped establish the Labor’s Non Partisan League. He was also named associate director of the Office of Production Management, which assisted in mobilizing the nation's resources for the war effort. Hillman’s prestige perhaps reflected the healthy condition of his union, which by the end of the conflict was strong and stable.

During the post World War II period the union faced a number of significant challenges. Membership continued to grow (peaking at 395,000 in 1968), but the union’s political influence and visibility in national affairs declined. In their never ending pursuit of lower production costs, many firms relocated to the South, forcing the union to engage in large organizing efforts. Simultaneously, signs began to appear of changes that would lead to the almost complete demise of the domestic apparel industry and, ultimately, to the erosion of union membership. Foreign imports of cheap clothing goods steadily grew in the 1950s and 1960s, and mushroomed in the following two decades, plunging employment in the apparel sector into a steady decline. Union efforts to stem the tide included Buy American campaigns and extensive lobbying in Congress, but they were to no avail. In 1976, the ACWA merged with the Textile Workers of America to become the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. Despite successful and much publicized nationwide actions such as the Farah boycott and the J.P. Stevens corporate campaign, the woes threatening the union’s existence continued unabated. The fate of the domestic industry was sealed in the late 1970s and the 1980s by the flight of firms chasing tax breaks and cheap labor abroad. By 1995, when ACTWU voted to merge with the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, their combined membership was 350,000. The new Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE!) seemed poised to infuse new life in a troubled union.

From the guide to the ACTWU's Project files, 1976-1998, (Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives, Cornell University Library)

English.

From the description of UNITE Organizational and Biographical History. 1998. (Cornell University Library). WorldCat record id: 741924871

The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America, the most significant union representing workers in the men's clothing industry, was founded in New York City in 1914 as a breakaway movement from the United Garment Workers. Radical and immigrant workers in the tailors’ and cutters’ locals were the core of the seceding group, which advocated industrial unionism and economic strikes in opposition to the UGW’s craft organization, which they saw as conservative and timid. Their diverging views had come to the fore during the historic 1910 dispute at the Chicago firm Hart, Schaffner, and Marx. The opposition called the strike against the UGW leadership’s advice, and reached a path-breaking agreement with management that established an arbitration system to settle disputes.

Members flocked to the new union. Around 50,000 strong at its founding, by 1920 the ACWA counted about 170,000 members. Initially composed mostly of immigrants of Jewish European descent with Socialist leanings, the ACWA quickly welcomed members of a great number of nationalities and diverse backgrounds. Like in other garment unions, most workers and many members were women, but the leadership was predominantly male, a situation that did not change for many decades. Early on the union adopted a centralized administrative structure combined with industrial unionism, with the joint boards’ by-laws having precedence over those of locals.

Espousing a philosophy perhaps brought over by its early immigrant socialist members, the Amalgamated went beyond bread and butter issues and adopted a distinctive form of social unionism that was largely absent in the American labor movement. Starting in the 1920s, it provided educational opportunities and recreational facilities for its members, as well as services such as an insurance plan, banks offering personal loans at low interest rates, low-cost housing cooperatives, medical clinics, and even union-owned restaurants.

Sidney Hillman was the first president of the new union and the most important officer in its history. He applied his experience as bargaining representative in Chicago to the whole industry. Under his leadership the union made significant strides in securing better wages and working conditions for its members, and at the same time it consolidated gains and provided stability to the industry through the widespread adoption of the arbitration system tested at Hart, Schaffner, and Marx. Hillman paid close attention to industry issues, such as production, pricing, and marketing. In order to help management meet the competition of non-union firms, the union conducted studies of efficiency, work methods, and factory costs. Letters to the official publication of the union, Advance, document the controversy that ensued within the union over what was perceived to be collaboration with management.

Hillman also understood the importance of labor’s involvement in national affairs and political action. In the 1920s the ACWA sent delegates to the Conference for Progressive Political Action and to the Farmer-labor party conventions. Although many members and officers were Socialists, the union stopped short of officially endorsing the party. Communist attempts at gaining influence within the union were firmly curbed. Hillman’s participation in national affairs and politics became prominent during the New Deal, when he became a close advisor to Franklin D. Roosevelt on labor and economic issues. He also served on the board of the National Recovery Administration. Later, during World War II, he helped establish the Labor’s Non Partisan League. He was also named associate director of the Office of Production Management, which assisted in mobilizing the nation's resources for the war effort. Hillman’s prestige perhaps reflected the healthy condition of his union, which by the end of the conflict was strong and stable.

During the post World War II period the union faced a number of significant challenges. Membership continued to grow (peaking at 395,000 in 1968), but the union’s political influence and visibility in national affairs declined. In their never ending pursuit of lower production costs, many firms relocated to the South, forcing the union to engage in large organizing efforts. Simultaneously, signs began to appear of changes that would lead to the almost complete demise of the domestic apparel industry and, ultimately, to the erosion of union membership. Foreign imports of cheap clothing goods steadily grew in the 1950s and 1960s, and mushroomed in the following two decades, plunging employment in the apparel sector into a steady decline. Union efforts to stem the tide included Buy American campaigns and extensive lobbying in Congress, but they were to no avail. In 1976, the ACWA merged with the Textile Workers of America to become the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. Despite successful and much publicized nationwide actions such as the Farah boycott and the J.P. Stevens corporate campaign, the woes threatening the union’s existence continued unabated. The fate of the domestic industry was sealed in the late 1970s and the 1980s by the flight of firms chasing tax breaks and cheap labor abroad. By 1995, when ACTWU voted to merge with the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union, their combined membership was 350,000. The new Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE!) seemed poised to infuse new life in a troubled union.

From the guide to the ACTWU's Out-of-Business Contracts, 1937-2000, (Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives, Cornell University Library)

Archival Resources
Role Title Holding Repository
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creatorOf Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. UNITE Organizational and Biographical History. 1998. Cornell University Library
referencedIn UNITE HERE (Organization). UNITE HERE. Photographs. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Local 169 (New York, N.Y). Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Local 169 (New York, N.Y.). Amalgamated Northeast Regional Joint Board. Banners. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Newman, Pauline M. Autobiography. 1969. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Dubrow, Evelyn. Evelyn Dubrow papers. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Research Department. Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees (UNITE). Research Department. Files, 1995-2001. Cornell University Library
creatorOf Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. UNITE Posters. Graphics. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. ACTWU's Out-of-Business Contracts. 1937-2000. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. ACTWU's Engineering Department Records, 1947-2000. Cornell University Library
referencedIn ILGWU. Health and Safety Department records, 1953-1995 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. ACTWU's Organizing Department Records. 1960-1995. Cornell University Library
referencedIn ACTWU's Communications and Public Relations Departments Records, 1951-1985 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Research Dept. Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Research Dept. Correspondence Chronological files, 1995-1997. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. Legal Dept. ACTWU's Legal Department Records, 1942-1995. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Rose Newmark Collection on the ILGWU Musical "Pins and Needles" Cornell University Library
referencedIn ACWA's Local 284 Records, 1947-1959 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America. ACWA's Rochester Joint Board Records, 1922-1976. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. Hosiery Division. ACTWU's Hosiery Division Records. 1959-1984. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Workers United. Workers United. Memorabilia. 2009. Cornell University Library
referencedIn ILGWU. Company files, 1971-1995 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. General Exectutive Board. ACTWU's General Executive Board (GEB) Records. 1916-1988. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Workers United. Workers United. Records. Digital. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Boston Joint Board. UNITE. Boston Joint Board. Audio-Visual Materials. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America. ACTWU's National Textile Recruitment and Training Program Records. 1975-1981. Cornell University Library
referencedIn ACTWU's Cotton Garment Control Department Records, 1955-1978 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Office of Corporate and Financial Affairs. Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees (UNITE). Office of Corporate and Financial Affairs. Audiovisual materials, 1987-1996. Cornell University Library
referencedIn ACTWU's Sander Genis Papers, 1916-1980 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn ACTWU's Education Department Files, 1948-1983 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Communications Department. Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees (UNITE!) Communications Department. Audiovisual materials, 1993-2003. Cornell University Library
creatorOf Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. UNITE. Local 10 and Local 23-25 Memorabilia, 1995-2004. Cornell University Library
referencedIn ACTWU's Collective Bargaining Agreements, 1917-1996 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Local 169. Amalgamated Northeast Regional Joint Board. Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Local 169. Amalgamated Northeast Regional Joint Board. Photographs, 1942-2001. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. ACTWU's Communication/Public Relations Department Records. 1951-1985. Cornell University Library
referencedIn Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union. ACTWU's Murray Finley Records from the President's Office. 1970-1987. Cornell University Library
referencedIn ACTWU's Executive Vice-President's Office Records, 1927-1996 Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives
referencedIn International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. ILGWU. Chorus Records and Sheet Music 1989-2000. Cornell University Library
Role Title Holding Repository
Relation Name
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associatedWith Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers' Union corporateBody
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associatedWith Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America corporateBody
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associatedWith Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America. Public Relations Department. corporateBody
associatedWith Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America. Research Department corporateBody
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associatedWith Amalgamated Clothing Workers Union of America. Local 50 (New York, N.Y.) corporateBody
associatedWith Amalgamated Ladies' Garment Cutters' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith Art Gundersheim person
associatedWith Art Gundersheim person
associatedWith Blackwell, Ron. person
associatedWith Burt Beck person
associatedWith Charles English person
associatedWith Chishti, Muzaffar. person
associatedWith Clinton, Hillary Rodham. person
associatedWith Cowell, Susan. person
associatedWith Cowell, Susan. person
associatedWith Deena Foreman Rosenthal person
associatedWith Dubrow, Evelyn. person
associatedWith Fashion Institute of Technology (New York, N.Y.) corporateBody
associatedWith Fitch, Robert, 1938- person
associatedWith Fox, Al, 1906- person
associatedWith Frank Rosenblum person
associatedWith Garment Industry Development Corporation. corporateBody
associatedWith Goldman, Harry M. person
associatedWith Hillman, Bessie. person
associatedWith Hotel Employees & Restaurant Employees International Union. corporateBody
associatedWith Howard, Alan person
associatedWith Howard, Alan. person
associatedWith Howard Samuel person
associatedWith Internatinal Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith Internatinal Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union corporateBody
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associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
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associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
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associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. corporateBody
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associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. Local 23-25 (New York, N.Y.) corporateBody
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associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. Operations Department. corporateBody
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associatedWith International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. Western States Region. corporateBody
associatedWith Jacob Potofsky person
associatedWith Jacob Potofsky person
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associatedWith Jacob Sheinkman person
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associatedWith Laundry, Dry Cleaning, and Dye House Workers' International Union. corporateBody
associatedWith Lieberman, Elias, b. 1888. person
associatedWith Melman, David. person
associatedWith Murray Finley person
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associatedWith New York City Economic Development Corporation. corporateBody
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associatedWith Sol Stettin person
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associatedWith Stetin, Sol person
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associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Boston Joint Board. corporateBody
associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Boston Joint Board. corporateBody
associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Communications Department. corporateBody
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associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial, and Textile Employees. Communications Department. corporateBody
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associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Legislative Department. corporateBody
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associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Local 10 (New York, N.Y.) corporateBody
associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Local 10 (New York, N.Y.) corporateBody
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associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Local 169 (New York, N.Y.) corporateBody
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associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees. Operations Department. corporateBody
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associatedWith Union of Needletrades, Industrial and Textile Employees (UNITE) corporateBody
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predecessorOf UNITE HERE (Organization) corporateBody
associatedWith William DuChessi person
associatedWith Workers United. corporateBody
Place Name Admin Code Country
New York (State)--New York
New York (State)--New York
New York (State)
United States
New York (State)--New York
New York (State)
New York (State)
United States
New York (State)--New York
New York (State)--New York
United States
New York (State)--New York
New York (State)--New York
New York (State)--New York
United States
New York (State)
New York (State)
New York (State)--New York
Subject
Clothing industry
Clothing trade
Clothing trade
Clothing workers
International Ladies' Garment Workers' Organizaiton
International Ladies' Garment Workers' Organizaiton
Sweatshops
Textile industry
Textile industry
Textile workers
Textile workers
Occupation
Activity

Corporate Body

Active 1995

Active 2004

Information

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